The collar , together with the cuffs, is often the only visible part of the shirt, the one where the gaze is focused.
To avoid making style mistakes, the important thing is to choose it according to very precise rules , without leaving anything to chance.
First of all, it must be proportionate to the face, the length of the neck and the general build.
To choose the right collar you need to make sure that it is the correct size : a trick to understand this is to put on the shirt and move the neck from right to left: if the tips of the collar remain still then the size is the right one.
When the shirt is worn under the jacket , the lapel should cover the lower edge of the collar and the points and the neck should be visible.
Below are the most common types of collar:
Italian collar : straight-point collar, semi-open with medium sail and removable stays, ideal for formal and social occasions.
French collar : large sail collar with very open tips and removable stays, considered young and trendy. Also called “Cutaway collar”, in France it is called “Italian style”.
Button Down Collar: This category includes collars with buttons to hold the tips in place. Also called “Soft Roll Collar”. It is a more informal model also suitable for sporty looks.
“Ceremony” collar : this is the elegant collar par excellence, it is characterized by tips bent outwards and is used for very formal occasions. Also called “frac” or “diplomatic”.
Mandarin collar : Composed essentially only of the collar. Also called “Mao collar”. It gives rigor and originality to the style. Today very common in casual and sporty linen shirts.